Replacement windows
Drafty sashes, foggy glass, rotted frames or a salesperson in your living room with a 'today only' price — here's what replacement windows actually cost per opening, which frame materials and glass ratings matter where you live, and how to hire an installer who measures properly and puts every number in writing.
Windows are one of the few home projects where the price you're quoted depends as much on the sales process as on the product. The same house can be quoted $9,000 by one company and $28,000 by another — often for windows with nearly identical energy ratings — because some companies sell with in-home presentations, inflated 'list prices' and a discount that disappears if you don't sign tonight.
The decisions themselves are simpler than the pitch makes them sound. You're choosing a frame material, a glass package suited to your climate, an installation method, and a crew. Get those four right, compare prices per opening instead of per package, and you'll know within minutes whether a quote is fair.
This page covers the window types and materials that matter, what replacement costs nationally, how to read the energy label, when repair beats replacement, the signs your windows are failing, and exactly what a written quote should include. City pages linked below carry local pricing, permit offices and licensing for your market.
The work
01
The new window slides into the existing frame after the old sashes and stops are removed. It's faster, cheaper and leaves interior trim and exterior siding alone. It only works when the existing frame is square and free of rot — an installer who never checks the sill with a screwdriver before quoting an insert is guessing.
02
The whole unit comes out down to the rough opening, so the installer can inspect framing, fix rot, and install new flashing and a sill pan. It costs more and touches trim and sometimes siding, but it's the right call for water damage, badly out-of-square openings, or when you want more glass area than an insert allows.
03
The most common window in American homes. Double-hungs tilt in for cleaning from inside; single-hungs have a fixed top sash and cost less. Both seal less tightly than a casement because the sashes slide past each other.
04
Crank-out windows that press against the weatherstripping when closed, which makes them among the tightest-sealing operable windows. Good over sinks and anywhere you want full ventilation. Cranks and hinges are the parts that wear.
05
Sliders suit wide, short openings. Picture windows don't open at all, so they're the most efficient and least expensive per square foot of glass. Arches, circles and custom shapes add cost and lead time — sometimes weeks.
06
Multi-unit windows that project from the wall. They need a structural seat, often a small roof cap, and careful flashing. They're a carpentry project as much as a window install, and priced like one.
07
Making an opening larger — for a basement bedroom egress window or a bigger view — means cutting the wall, adding a header and usually pulling a permit. Egress windows must meet minimum opening size and sill-height rules in the building code.
08
A fogged double-pane unit can often be replaced without replacing the frame. Broken balances, cranks, weatherstripping and hardware are cheap repairs. A good company will tell you when repair is enough.
Plan the budget
National planning ranges for installed replacement windows in a typical single-family home. Size, frame material, glass package, brand tier, installation method and local labor move these numbers substantially, and storm-rated or impact glass costs considerably more. Always compare quotes per opening. Your city page carries local pricing.
| Scope | Planning range | What changes it |
|---|---|---|
| Vinyl double-hung, insert install | $500 – $1,100 per window | The most common replacement |
| Fiberglass or composite double-hung | $900 – $1,600 per window | Stiffer frames, paintable |
| Wood or wood-clad double-hung | $1,000 – $2,000 per window | Clad exteriors need less upkeep |
| Casement window | $700 – $1,800 per window | Tighter seal, more hardware |
| Sliding window | $600 – $1,400 per window | Wide, short openings |
| Picture window (fixed) | $500 – $1,800 per window | Varies mostly with size |
| Bay or bow window | $3,000 – $8,000 installed | Seat, roof cap and trim included |
| Full-frame replacement (added cost) | $150 – $500 per window | Over an insert install |
| Impact-rated / hurricane window | $1,000 – $2,500+ per window | Required in some coastal codes |
| Egress window with wall cut | $2,500 – $5,500 | Well, header and permit extra |
| Fogged glass unit replacement | $150 – $500 per unit | Frame stays |
| Whole house (10–15 vinyl windows) | $7,000 – $16,000 | Mid-grade, insert installs |
Frame material: vinyl is least expensive, fiberglass and composite in the middle, wood and wood-clad at the top.
Glass package: double vs. triple pane, Low-E coatings, argon or krypton fill — matched to your climate zone, not upsold by default.
Insert vs. full-frame installation, and how much rot repair the openings need once the old units come out.
Size and shape: oversized, arched and custom units cost more and take longer to arrive.
Storm and impact requirements in coastal wind zones, which can double the price per opening.
Access: second- and third-story windows, stairs and landscaping add labor.
Lead-safe work practices on homes built before 1978, which EPA rules require for disturbing painted surfaces.
The sales model: companies that sell with in-home presentations and big 'list price' discounts carry higher overhead into every window.
Permit fees where your city requires them, which should be a line item.
Know the signs
Some of these are a cheap repair. Several together, on windows 20 or more years old, usually mean replacement is the better money.
Condensation or fog between the panes — a failed seal on an insulated glass unit.
Drafts you can feel with the window closed and locked.
Sashes that stick, won't stay open, or won't lock.
Soft, cracked or rotted wood at the sill or bottom rail.
Water stains on the wall or drywall below the window after rain.
Single-pane glass or aluminum frames that frost or sweat in winter.
Rooms near windows that are noticeably hotter or colder than the rest of the house.
Outside noise that comes straight through.
Faded floors and furniture from unfiltered sunlight.
No pressure
You don't need to diagnose the job before you ask for help. Tell Henry what you see and compare up to three local window replacement companies.
Get matched with a proHire with confidence
The best predictor of a good window job isn't the brand on the sticker — it's who installs it and whether the price was honest before anyone started negotiating.
Get a price per opening, with the brand, product line, frame material and glass package named for each window.
Ask for the NFRC label values (U-factor and Solar Heat Gain Coefficient) in writing, and check they fit your climate zone.
Confirm insert vs. full-frame for each opening, and how rot found during removal will be priced.
Ask whether the company's own employees install, or a subcontractor — and who you call if a window leaks.
Get both warranties in writing: the manufacturer's product warranty and the installer's labor warranty.
Verify the contractor license or home improvement registration your state requires, plus liability insurance.
For homes built before 1978, ask for the company's EPA lead-safe (RRP) certification.
Ask who pulls the permit where one is required and whether inspection is included.
Confirm lead time for the product and how long the install takes per window.
Get the cleanup, disposal and trim/caulk scope written into the quote.
A 'today only' or 'sign tonight' price, or a large discount off an inflated list price.
A whole-house package price with no per-window breakdown.
No energy ratings in writing, or vague claims like 'energy-efficient glass.'
A salesperson who won't leave a written quote behind.
Pressure to finance on the spot before you've compared anything.
No mention of flashing, sill pans or insulation around the frame.
Large deposits well beyond what's needed to order custom-sized product.
Questions homeowners ask
Most mid-grade vinyl replacement windows run roughly $500 to $1,100 installed as an insert. Fiberglass and wood run higher, and impact-rated windows in coastal areas can exceed $2,000 each. A single window often costs more per opening than a whole-house order because the trip and setup are the same.
Per window, yes — installers price in setup time, and larger orders get better product pricing. But you don't have to do every window. Many homeowners start with the worst-performing side of the house or the rooms they use most.
Vinyl is the value choice and performs well in most climates. Fiberglass expands and contracts less, suits dark colors and hot climates, and can be painted. Wood looks best and costs most, with more upkeep unless it's clad. The installation matters more than the material.
U-factor measures how much heat escapes — lower is better, and it matters most in cold climates. Solar Heat Gain Coefficient measures how much sun heat comes in — lower is better in hot climates. Both are on the NFRC label, and ENERGY STAR sets recommended values by climate zone.
Replacing single-pane windows usually makes a noticeable difference; replacing decent double-pane windows with slightly better ones usually doesn't pay back on energy alone. Comfort, noise, condensation and maintenance are often better reasons than the utility bill.
It depends on the city. Many jurisdictions don't require a permit for same-size replacements but do for enlarged openings, structural changes, or egress windows. Your city page lists the local office; a good installer will know the rule and pull the permit when it's required.
Custom-sized windows typically take several weeks to arrive after the final measure. Installation itself usually runs a day for an average house of insert windows, longer for full-frame work or bays.
Often, yes. If the frame and sash are sound, the insulated glass unit can be replaced for a fraction of a new window. If the frame is rotting or several windows are failing, replacement is usually better money.
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Local market guides
Each city page covers local labor pricing, weather, permits, licensing, neighborhoods and the contractors Henry can match in that market.
Tell Henry what you need. We’ll send your project to no more than three local pros — and you decide whether any of them earns your business.
Sources: U.S. Department of Energy — Energy Efficient Window Coverings and Windows · ENERGY STAR — Residential Windows, Doors and Skylights · National Fenestration Rating Council — Understanding the label · U.S. EPA — Lead Renovation, Repair and Painting Program · FTC — Hiring a Contractor
The Henry Standard
Call back. Keep appointments. And if something changes, communicate it.
Price per window, product and energy ratings in writing — no inflated list price and 'today only' discount.
Install, flash, seal and trim every opening, then clean up before calling it finished.
Nothing revolutionary. Just the way we believe doing business should still be done.
